DETROIT DIESEL 353 OIL PRESSURE GENERATOR
DETROIT DIESEL 353 OIL PRESSURE FULL

We changed the fuel filter, but, predictably, it did not fix the problem. However, those occasions when the power is lost or almost lost, lead to very unpleasant experiences.

DETROIT DIESEL 353 OIL PRESSURE FULL

Most of the time, however, it is capable of running at full power without problems. Occasionally it happens even when it is running idle doing nothing. The problem that it developed recently is that from time to time, the engine loses power intermittently and sometimes even dies. Despite its very advanced age, it is a heavy, kick-butt, super capable forklift, brutal and powerful and very easy to use, one of my main money-makers. I have a 30,000 lbs capacity Towmotor forklift that is powered by a Detroit 3-53 two stroke diesel engine. I hope that some old timers can guide me a little bit. I apologize for a somewhat off-topic question, as it pertains to a forklift engine and not to a generator, but I am begging to be forgiven. They still leak with age as the O ring takes a set or gets hard from heat and age.Hi. Some engine designs now use round O ring material in grooves to seal mating surfaces. If you still can't tell, you can get dye at most truck engine dealers ( I get mine from Cat) to add to the oil and then use a black light to look for the leaks.ДЄge takes its toll on the oil tightness of any engine, even newer ones. If you cant really tell (just one big mess) then try to get the engine cleaned / washed off at a local truck shop, truck detail shop, or other source, then look again for source of leak. Try to determine where your leaks are coming from. Did the person who put it together take time to make sure mating surfaces were prepped right and proper sealants used? Did they take time to put sealant on bolts for which the threaded hole goes thru into inside / did they miss a few or one? Were bolts brought to proper torque? Were copper or brass sealing washers put underneath the heads of location specific bolts requiring them? I have seen aftermarket / non DD gaskets that are grossly inferior both in type of material and style of gasket (such as plain gasket material vs material with sealant bead running in center of gasket surface). Were genuine DD gaskets used when the engine was assembled? Gasket materials and designs have changed significantly thru the years. Gaskets get hard and fail to seal with heat and age, especially older style / material gaskets How long has it been since the last complete out of frame teardown / overhaul? Many of the points that DD like to leak from are not accessed during an in frame overhaul. That said many aspects come into play as to whether they leak or not. Running overfull leads to oil aeration, foaming, and excess oil just flat being splashed around internally.Дў cycle Detroits have many parts requiring gaskets between them to seal (or not and leak) - many more than Cummins engines of the same generation - thus the term 'Screaming Green Leaker'. Luvrbus is also right in confirming that the dipstick is calibrated correctly which ensures that the elevation of the oil level in the pan is correct. As also mentioned, sometimes checking / tightening bolts works, but mostly in cases where unit was recently assembled. Maybe just pulling the pan and installing a new pan gasket. This is likely a leak that can be fixed without major work / disassembly. This also makes for a great leak when the engine is running and the oil is hot / thinner. I would agree that luvrbus is correct in that you have a static oil leak / oil leaking from the pan, pan gasket / pan to block mating point or some other point where, when the engine is not running, the oil level is above the point that is leaking. The only drip points I have on my driveway are the two dribble tubes. I have gone from adding a gallon every 300-500 miles to only adding a gallon every 1500-2K miles. Then there were other little things like valve cover gasket, loose bolts on the gear train cover/end plate, etc.Дriving the bus every week only allowed me limited time to find and fix each leak, but over the years I have managed to have an engine that is relatively leak free. Even with one bolt broke off it sealed up nicely. The next one was the bottom plate of the air compressor, I removed it and resealed it with high temp silicone. The next 'big' leak I had was simple, I tightened all of the oil pan bolts.

DETROIT DIESEL 353 OIL PRESSURE GENERATOR

When the generator finally crapped out on me I replaced it with an auxiliary pulley and new alternator. Everything I tried couldn't fix that leak completely, it always seemed to seep oil a little. The worst leak was the seals on the generator. I had several leaks on my 671 original to my 1960 4104 bus when we first got it.

Detroit diesel 353 oil pressure